However, before you start cutting holes, you want  to check with your local building code to ensure you choose the right  type of skylight to coordinate with ventilation and natural light requirements. 
Prior  to starting the process of installing your new skylight,  you want to  have the actual skylight with you along with the  instructions from the  manufacturer. This will provide you with the rough  dimensions and  specific steps for installation. To get started, the  opening will need  to be located and marked. With a saber or drywall saw,  you will start  by cutting out a two-foot square test hole in the  ceiling where you  want the center of the skylight to go.
Next,  look around the ceiling and roof  framing to determine the best place  for the opening location and  consider plumbing and electrical  installations. Now you want to position  and then mark the opening,  which will help minimize the amount of  framing and joists needing to be  cut. Using the saw, you will cut the  opening along the guideline.  Remove the ceiling material and then  install your temporary bracing.  Then, you want to cut through the  ceiling joists and framing according  to the skylight opening.
 To  frame the opening, you will double  the last uncut joist on either side  of the ceiling opening and then  install double headers going across  the opening with the ends to the cut  joists sitting perpendicular.  Using lumber that is the same depth as  the ceiling framing, you will  nail the trimmer joists to the frame the  same as the opening for the  light shaft. With 12d nails, go through the  metal framing ties to  connect the joists securely. The next step  involves locating and  marking the roof opening. To do this, hang a plumb  bob at the bottom  edge of the roof rafters, going down to each corner  of the opening in  the ceiling. These corner locations will be  transferred vertically to  the rafters, taking these points to the  underside of the roof, as a way  of locating the rough opening that will  be cut through the roof. Next,  drive a pilot nail through the roof at  each of the corners at your  proposed opening. Keep in mind that you want  the corners to fall within  the skylight curb framing.
To  frame the opening, you will double  the last uncut joist on either side  of the ceiling opening and then  install double headers going across  the opening with the ends to the cut  joists sitting perpendicular.  Using lumber that is the same depth as  the ceiling framing, you will  nail the trimmer joists to the frame the  same as the opening for the  light shaft. With 12d nails, go through the  metal framing ties to  connect the joists securely. The next step  involves locating and  marking the roof opening. To do this, hang a plumb  bob at the bottom  edge of the roof rafters, going down to each corner  of the opening in  the ceiling. These corner locations will be  transferred vertically to  the rafters, taking these points to the  underside of the roof, as a way  of locating the rough opening that will  be cut through the roof. Next,  drive a pilot nail through the roof at  each of the corners at your  proposed opening. Keep in mind that you want  the corners to fall within  the skylight curb framing.Now  the roof opening will need to be cut and framed. Typically,  prefabricated skylights  already have the curb assembly mounted. With  this, you would take the  assembly to the roof along with pilot nails  that will be used as guides.  If you have an asphalt-shingled roof,  simply take a utility knife and  cut along your marked lines, and then  remove the shingles. Next, with a  circular saw, you would cut through  the sheathing. For wood-shingles,  you will cut through the shingles and  the roof together, placing a board  beneath the board to allow the saw  to glide freely. Remember to save  the shingles for later. The roof  opening will be framed by doubling the  rafters at the sides of the roof  opening, as well as the ends of the cut  rafters. Now, install the  double headers going across the opening at  both ends.
 To  install your skylight,  you would need to follow the manufacturer’s  instructions, making sure  it has been secured temporarily while you  test the position. If the  skylight is misaligned, not only would it be  noticeable from the inside  but it would also create risks for future  leaks. With a level, you want  to check the sill and then measure the  diagonals to ensure the corners  are square. Once done, the brackets  will be screwed into the roof over a  layer of building paper. To flash  the curb and repair the roof, you  will install an aluminum sill, head,  and step flashing. Make sure you  interweave the flashing and  replacement shingles, as you move ahead.  Then, apply roofing compound  under the flashing and shingles.
To  install your skylight,  you would need to follow the manufacturer’s  instructions, making sure  it has been secured temporarily while you  test the position. If the  skylight is misaligned, not only would it be  noticeable from the inside  but it would also create risks for future  leaks. With a level, you want  to check the sill and then measure the  diagonals to ensure the corners  are square. Once done, the brackets  will be screwed into the roof over a  layer of building paper. To flash  the curb and repair the roof, you  will install an aluminum sill, head,  and step flashing. Make sure you  interweave the flashing and  replacement shingles, as you move ahead.  Then, apply roofing compound  under the flashing and shingles.      Finally, the shaft will be framed and  the interior finished. You want  the side of the shaft to be framed using  2×6s and then with an  adjustable bevel gauge, mark, cut, and install  the framing. The walls  will now be insulated with R-19 fiberglass batts  by stapling a 6-mil  polyethylene vapor barrier on the inside sides. The  shaft will be  finished and then the joists taped with drywall tape and  joint  compound. Use 100-grit sandpaper or drywall sanding mesh to help  smooth  the joint compound and then apply the finish paint. The last step  is to install wood molding, as a means of hiding the joint found  between the drywall and skylight.
 

 
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